It's stripping time!

Looking really smart Skytiger, are you using your old shocks, or using new. I haven't properly looked into if you can get adjustables for Kombi's or whether they improve ride significally?

The wife just said the other day "do you need new shocks", so yes I will be getting new shocks but I have to set the ride height first then measure the distance between bolt holes before purchase( admittedly only really required for the back as dropped spindles use standard shocks on the front). Creative Engineering do SPAX shocks so probably get them from there.

Well since starting this lowering on the 5th of January I now have all the pieces to complete. However weather was conspiring against me this weekend.

I did manage to get the dropped spindles on with link pin's adjusted and spindle all greased up. The trolley jack and bottle jack were used to lift the bottom swing arm up in order to locate both link pins at the same time.

The dropped spindles go on with the king pin clamp bolt towards the inside of the vehicle now.

You cannot get the dust covers over the end of the link pins either as there is not enough room now as you can see in the second photo.




On the offside however I had to turn the bolt which held the anti roll bar clamp on as the bottom bleed nipple was hitting the threads. The nearside is close aswell but does clear.


This is it turned around


I have also removed both the original fixed and adjustable track rods and fitted the new larger track rod end to the original adjustable track rod. I have also fitted a larger track rod end (which are necessary as they fit from underneath now, rather than from the top) to the new adjustable track rod to replace the original fixed one. The original track rod end you removed earlier is put onto the new adjustable one. Clear as mud I know, sorry no pics but will add them soon.

I was hoping to get it on it's wheels today but a snag with the brake dust shields hitting the head of the bottom link pin when turning prevented me. I tried reshaping the dust shield in the vice but it still hits, I think by cutting a hole in the dust shield with a holesaw will give me the required clearance (shame I just painted them ). However I didn't have the right size so everythings on hold till I get one.

Looking good be nice to see your bay back on the deck a lot lower

Thanks dazdub, I can't wait to get it off the axle stands

Another great photo write up skytiger, thanks, looking forward to the next in the series.

Constantly amazed at what you have done/can doo!
Keep up the good work

dizzylizard wrote:

looking forward to the next in the series.

Thanks dizzy once this is done it's adjustable rear spring plates for the back so watch this space.

I tried to bend the backing plate to give enough clearance for the bottom link pin but it wasn't to be.




I ended up in the end using a 51mm holesaw to cut a hole in the backing plate to give clearance.




This is it fitted you can see the llink pin head through the hole


These pics shows the spindle on opposite locks with no hitting, plently clearance.




And a close up of the new hole.


I will need to put a rag when greasing the bottom link pin inbetween it and the backing plate, I don't want grease on the brake disc.

I will hopefully be done with the front this weekend and get started on the rear, hopefully that might be more straight forward then again maybe not

Keep up the good work. She's coming on a treat.

Well I managed to get the front completed today, hubs on, brake disc, brake caliper and new track rods and ends. Greased all the suspension while I was at it and all that is required is a tracking adjustment for the front. Oh and fit the shocks back on but going to get new ones anyway.





Everything back on apart from wheels.


A before lowering pic.


This is the front lowered but not the back yet.

Then it was no resting for me straight onto the back.

Removing shock absorber lower bolt 19mm and upper bolt.


Next remove the clip which holds the flexi brake hose to the hard line, this is for movement of the hub to enable the spring plate to be removed.


Now is a good time to release your handbrake cables in the cab then remove the brake drum to enable the handbrake cable to be disconnected, again for hub movement. The adjuster must be all the way in this allows enough free cable to remove the handbrake cable.




Then pull the handbrake cable out from the backing plate.


There are four hub retaining bolts which need to be removed but before you do support the hub so there are no suprises when you release the last bolt.


As you can see the hard brake pipe goes over the swing arm then into the brake cylinder at the top of the backing plate, which is different from the classic buses which goes through the spring plate. So I am hoping there will be enough movement in the flexi brake line for me to move the hub out the way.


I removed the torsion bar end cap by removing four 15mm bolts and marked a white parallel line for reference.




I stopped there as it was getting too dark so will resume sometime this week hopefully.

Looks FAB Skytiger - keep up the good work!
Great photo's of the work too

Looks coooooool

It was too cold and snowy yesterday to do any work on Phileas, so gave it a bash today.

This is the four hub retaining bolts removed and the hub supported with some jacks. I was able to move the whole hub up enough to remove the flexi and hard line from the suspension arm bracket this gave me enough movement from the flexi hose to move it out the way.


Next you need to lever off the original spring plate, mine decided to come out with the torsion bar but I just put something behind the plate and knocked the torsion bar back and it came off quite easily.


I then removed the rubber donuts from the original plate and fitted them onto the adjustable ones, with a bit of grease around them I slid them onto the torsion bar one spline lower. It wasn't that easy to get the new plates onto the splines it took a bit of effort with a dead blow hammer.


The next problem was the spacer which goes inbetween the torsion bar cap because you effectively now have two plates. Would not line up with all four holes bummer I will now need to contact Transporterhaus to see if they have sent classic bay ones instead of Brazibay, or if infact I will need to modify them to fit.

The front two bolts line up perfectly its the backs which are out by quite a bit.



In the pic above I think the spacer is too close to the adjustable plate anyway, so If I have to modify these I will grind a bit more clearance into them. Shame they have been zinc passivated already and this will remove the coating.


I had to use longer bolts M10x40mm to pull the torsion bar cap and plate onto the spline (Despite enquiring with Transporterhaus if longer bolts would be needed and the answer given was no)


With the longer bolts holding everything on I was able to refit the hub while I await a solution to the spacer issue.

When the spacer is fitted the jobs left will be hub bolts to tighten up, refit brake pipe securing clip, bump stops to cut down, handbrake cable to reattach in brake drum, brake shoe adjustment, handbrake cable adjustment, refit shock absorber, wheels on then get it on the ground and adjust ride height.

Almost there. Shame about the hole positions, just far enough out to cause problem. Couple of mill and all would have been OK

I know Kiteman not far out, it's getting a bit frustrating now to say the least as Phileas has nearly been on axle stands for three months now. I am just waiting on an email from the company.

Well the upshot is I have to modify the spacers, the new design for the Brazilian buses will be two weeks away.

This is the spacer untouched.


This is my modified version with extra clearance around the spring plate.


I still need to drill out the holes which don't line up they are 11mm just now I think possibly 13mm should do it.

Keep it up not long now

I got the spacer holes drilled out and fitted yesterday and got it on the ground.

This pic is front lowered but back standard.


This one is front lowered and rear turned one spline with adjustable spring plates screwed to quite a high setting on back. Unfortunatley it's too low the brake pipes are too close to the body, can you believe I'll need to raise it


I think I'll need to put it back to the original spline (which means taking everything apart again) and then lower it on the spring plate adjuster. I think getting it somewhere in the middle of the tyre profile should be ok as it's in line with the rim just now.

Skytiger wrote:

Unfortunatley it's too low the brake pipes are too close to the body, can you believe I'll need to raise it

No such thing as too low, looks nice like that

Can't the brake pipes be moved?

kiteman wrote:

Can't the brake pipes be moved?

They can but will need to be remade, still deliberating, as the adjusters on the plate would bring it down to where I had it. As I've turned it back onto the original spline position today. Sorry forgot to take pics of the stance now, but looking a bit hotrod. Think I'll sleep on it Kiteman.

Shame it has to go up looks ace

Kiteman, Dazdub you're right about the height decided to replace and reroute brake pipes really for my own peace of mind if keeping it that low in the pictures.

This part of the pipe between the two red arrows could potentially hit the chassis rail.


This is the new route to avoid all contact with the chassis rail.




Credit must go to my dad for his brake pipe bending technique, and chief pipe flaring skills.

Tomorrow should see me get the wheels back on, set the ride height to what it was with the adjusters and try to get the tracking on the front close to standard. Well enough to drive Phileas to a local alignment shop to get it all set up perfect.

Also got a new starter battery today this is the third one in three years luckily it has a four year warranty. A short circuit in a cell according to the electronic tester machine. Anyway now he starts which is good

Good job better lower